Sod and Hydroseed Installation
A new lawn changes how a property feels the moment it goes in. Sod gives you a ready-made yard and grass seed lets you grow into one, but hydroseed is the option we recommend most often. Whichever you choose, we build it right from the soil up so it holds up season after season.
Sod vs. hydroseed vs. grass seed: which is right for your lawn?
Each route gets you to the same place, a full, healthy lawn, but they get you there differently. Here’s how we walk clients through the decision:
| Sod | Hydroseed | Grass Seed |
How it goes down | Rolled out as mature, ready-grown turf | Sprayed on as a slurry of seed, mulch, and fertilizer that holds moisture and keeps the seed in place | Spread over prepared soil and raked in |
Time to a usable lawn | Days, with light foot traffic possible within a couple of weeks | Weeks, and it typically fills in faster than traditionally sown seed | Weeks to a couple of months, depending on species and weather |
Best season to install | Nearly year-round on the coast, outside of frozen or waterlogged ground | Spring or early fall, when temperatures and rainfall favour germination | Spring or early fall, when temperatures and rainfall favour germination |
Ongoing care | Straightforward once established, though the first two to three weeks need consistent watering | Needs consistent moisture while the new grass comes up, then settles into regular lawn care | Needs more patience early on, with overseeding sometimes required in patchy spots the following year |
Our take | A great pick when you need a lawn right away | Our recommendation for most yards: the easiest route to a thick, even finish | A fit if you are comfortable giving the lawn time to fill in |
If you need a walkable lawn fast, sod is a solid choice. Grass seed works when you’re comfortable giving a lawn time to fill in. For most yards, though, we recommend hydroseed. The seed goes down in a mulch slurry that holds moisture against the soil and stays put on slopes, which helps the grass come in full and even without much fuss. We’re happy to talk through which option matches your yard and your timeline.
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Getting the soil ready
A new lawn is only as good as what’s underneath it, so we don’t skip steps here. Our process typically covers:
- Clearing the site of old grass, roots, debris, and any stones large enough to interfere with root growth
- Rough grading the area so water runs away from your foundation instead of pooling against it
- Tilling the existing soil several inches deep to break up compaction and give roots somewhere to go
- Bringing in quality topsoil where it’s needed and fine-grading it smooth, so there are no low spots that collect water or high spots that scalp under the mower
- Pre-watering and applying a starter fertilizer right before sod or seed goes down, so it’s rooting into soil that’s ready for it, not just sitting on top of it
Skipping any one of these is usually where DIY lawns run into trouble later, and it’s the part of the job that matters most even though it’s the part nobody sees once the grass fills in.
Watering and establishing your new lawn
The first few weeks after installation set the tone for how your lawn performs for years. With sod, we recommend a thorough soaking on installation day, followed by light, frequent watering (several short sessions a day rather than one long one) for the first two to three weeks while the roots knit into the soil below. After that, we typically shift to less frequent but deeper watering to encourage roots to grow down rather than staying near the surface. Hydroseed and grass seed follow a similar arc but need the soil surface kept consistently moist for longer, since seed that dries out partway through germination won’t recover. The mulch in a hydroseed mix helps hold that moisture in, though the surface still has to stay damp until the new grass is up.
We generally suggest holding off on walking across a new sod lawn for about two weeks, and longer for hydroseed or seed, so the roots aren’t disturbed while they’re still finding their footing. Morning and early afternoon watering tends to work better than evening watering here, since it gives the grass time to dry out before nightfall and helps keep fungus from taking hold in our damp coastal air.
Frequently asked questions
How soon can I walk on new sod?
Give it about two weeks before regular foot traffic. The roots need that time to knit into the soil beneath them, and walking on it too soon, especially while it’s wet, can leave lasting compaction or bare patches.
Should I choose sod, hydroseed, or grass seed?
For most yards, we recommend hydroseed. It’s the easiest option to get right and gives you a thick, even lawn. Sod is the better pick if you need a usable lawn in days, and grass seed works if you’re happy to let a lawn fill in over time. We’re happy to look at your yard and talk through what makes sense for what you’re after.
What’s the best time of year to install a new lawn here?
Spring and early fall are generally the strongest windows in the Lower Mainland, thanks to mild temperatures and natural rainfall. We also install through summer, it just means paying closer attention to watering while the lawn establishes.
Do you offer hydroseeding as well as sod and traditional seed?
Yes, and it’s the option we recommend for most lawns. Hydroseed goes on as a slurry of seed and mulch that holds moisture and keeps the seed in place, so it establishes faster than traditionally sown seed and fills in evenly. We can help you decide if it fits your project.
How much prep work goes into a new lawn before the grass goes down?
More than most people expect. We clear the site, grade it so water drains away from your home, till and amend the soil, and fine-grade it smooth before anything gets planted. This step is what determines how your lawn performs down the road.
How often do I need to water a new lawn once it’s in?
For the first two to three weeks, frequent light watering keeps the soil moist without saturating it. After that, we shift to deeper, less frequent watering to train the roots to grow down rather than staying near the surface.